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Weingut Kaufmann: From Swiss Cheese Master to Biodynamic Pioneer in the Rheingau

Weingut Kaufmann: From Swiss Cheese Master to Biodynamic Pioneer in the Rheingau

In Germany’s Rheingau – the homeland of Riesling – most estates boast centuries of family tradition. Weingut Kaufmann, however, has taken a completely different path. Its founder, Urban Kaufmann, was once a toptier Appenzell cheese maker in Switzerland. This crossover from cheese to wine not only created a remarkable story, but also turned Kaufmann into one of the most distinctive estates in the Rheingau.

A Fateful Career Change

In 2013, Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps founded Weingut Kaufmann together. Urban originally came from Switzerland and had run a premium Appenzell cheese dairy. His wife Eva Raps, on the other hand, had a very different background – she served as Managing Director of the German VDP (the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) for seventeen years, making her one of the most wellconnected figures in the German wine world.

One knew cheese, the other knew wine – their union is itself a perfect “food and wine pairing”. As Urban himself puts it: “A lot of fate, coincidence and happiness brought Eva and me together.” In 2012, at the age of 40, Urban was looking not only for a wine estate but also for a life partner – and he found both in the Rheingau

Top Terroir: The Soul of Grand Cru Vineyards

The estate is based in Hattenheim in the Rheingau and cultivates about 17 hectares of vineyards. Its core sites include the renowned Hattenheimer Wisselbrunnen and Hattenheimer Hassel.

The soils are remarkably diverse, ranging from light Tertiary marl, deep loess and loam, to gravelly, slate-rich weathered stone. This geological variety gives the wines fine minerality and clear structure.

In terms of grape varieties, Riesling accounts for 75% of plantings, Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) for 15%, with the rest planted to Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. The estate places special emphasis on Pinot Noir, particularly in the grand cru site Hattenheimer Hassel.

Biodynamic Viticulture: A Return to Nature’s Essence

One of Kaufmann’s most distinctive hallmarks is its strong commitment to biodynamic viticulture. In 2017, the estate received Demeter biodynamic certification.

What does biodynamics mean for the estate? Urban Kaufmann explains: “For us, biodynamics first and foremost means investing more care and attention in the vineyards, and empathy for our vines and the surrounding natural environment. ” All wines from the estate are certified biodynamic and organic.

In the Rheingau, biodynamic estates remain relatively rare, and Kaufmann is one of the pioneers. They are convinced that only in an ecologically healthy environment can the finest grapes thrive.

Estate Philosophy: “Rheingau Wine in Swiss Perfection”

Urban summarises the estate’s philosophy in one phrase – “Rheingau wine in Swiss perfection”. The style he pursues is: “Our wines should be easy to understand, yet complex; they should have a clear fruit expression and be presented dry with lively acidity.

In the cellar, the winemaking emphasises minimal intervention, respecting natural cycles and soil vitality. Eva and Urban combine their respective backgrounds – VDP management experience and the precision of Swiss cheese-making – into an exceptionally exacting approach to winemaking.

The Wine Range: From Tell to GG

Kaufmann’s portfolio covers a full spectrum, from everyday drinking wines to top-tier cuvées:

Tell Riesling is the estate’s entrylevel recommendation – Urban himself calls it the best choice for a first encounter with the estate.

Hattenheim Riesling Trocken received a 91-point rating from Falstaff magazine.

Sommervogel Riesling Feinherb shows complex aromas of grapefruit, ripe lemon, and apricot, with lively yet refined acidity.

Among the top wines, the 2016 Hassel Pinot Noir GG is particularly outstanding – it was named best Pinot Noir of the Rheingau by the Eichelmann wine guide.

In addition, the estate produces Sylvaner, orange wine, and VDP.SEKT sparkling wines.

More Than a Winery: A Lifestyle Destination

Weingut Kaufmann is not only about highquality wines; it also offers unique tasting experiences. Urban integrates his background as a Swiss cheese maker into the estate’s hospitality – regularly hosting wine tastings paired with Swiss cheese fondue. One visitor commented: “The pairing of wine and food was excellent, and the two friendly hosts created a wonderful atmosphere.”

The estate is located at Rheinallee 6, 65347 Eltville-Hattenheim, and is open for visits Monday to Friday 10:00-18:00, and Saturday 10:00-14:00.

Conclusion

The story of Weingut Kaufmann is one of courage, cross-over passion, and love for the craft. From a Swiss cheese workshop to a top-tier Rheingau estate – from Demeter biodynamic certification to VDP membership – Urban Kaufmann and Eva Raps have turned a historic vineyard property into one of the Rheingau’s finest ambassadors for Riesling in less than a decade.

As Urban says: “We focus on the essentials – direct, pure, modern – and we do everything with joy and from the heart. ” That is perhaps the most fascinating part of Kaufmann’s story: in every glass, you taste not only terroir and craftsmanship, but also a remarkable life journey from cheese to wine.

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